By Roz Bokoff
Venice, often dubbed the “City of Canals,” is renowned for its stunning architecture, winding waterways, and vibrant cultural heritage. Within its winding streets and canals lie a long and rich Jewish history that has experienced both flourishing periods and deep adversity.
The History – In Brief
Throughout the centuries, Venetian Jews experienced discrimination, forced conversions, and periods of expulsion, but also had unique opportunities. The community adapted to changing circumstances and continually contributed to the cultural and economic life of the city.
Precisely when Jews arrived in Venice is difficult to pinpoint, but it’s likely to have been around 1000 CE. A Jewish cemetery was founded on Lido Island in 1389, so it was certainly before then. Jewish merchants and traders were attracted to Venice’s location as a trading hub. Most lived in Mestre, a nearby mainland community, since they were barred from citizenship and, for many years, the right to live in the city. But they were allowed to visit for up to one month per year to conduct business.
By the late 1400s and early 1500s, residency was permitted. Soon, however, the Venetian government created a ghetto, separating Jews from the Christian population. The “New Ghetto” was built in 1516 in the Cannaregio District and served as home to the Jews until the ironically named “Old Ghetto” was built in 1542, followed by the “Newest Ghetto,” constructed in 1633. Venice’s ghetto wasn’t only a place of confinement; it became a vibrant cultural center where Jewish life thrived despite restrictions.
The flourishing and diverse ghetto had schools, businesses, and five synagogues. Ashkenazim and Sephardim coexisted and contributed to the city’s economy and culture. The Great Synagogue (Ashkenazi), or Scuola Grande, built in 1528, was followed by the French synagogue, Italian synagogue, Spanish synagogue, and Levantine synagogue.
As an independent republic, Venice was consumed with power and amassing riches. Frequent wars required funding, and Jews were instrumental in providing money through lending and paying taxes on just about anything. Three Jewish banks – Red, Green, and Black – lent money to the state, but Jewish money lenders were a façade; Venetians always were responsible for accepting or rejecting loans, terms, and more.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Jewish life in Venice improved. Napoleon conquered Venice and tore down the ghetto walls, but subsequent conquests resulted in the ghetto’s return, followed by another destruction. In 1866, the ghetto was shut down allowing for greater Jewish integration into Venetian society.
During the shoah, 249 community members were abducted and murdered by the Nazis, but to their credit, Venetian and Jewish leaders collaborated to save the vast majority of Venice’s Jews. A memorial is in the ghetto courtyard, and stumbling stones are placed from where Jews were taken.
What to See and Do
We were recently in Venice, and hands-down recommend a private ghetto tour as the best way to take in the Jewish history. If you can’t arrange the private tour, using the Jewish Museum’s audio guide or joining a group tour work as well.
When visiting the synagogues, you’ll notice that the “aron kodesh,” ark holding the Torah scrolls is on one end of the sanctuary while the clergy’s “bimah,” dais is on the other. We learned that weight distribution of structures built in Venice’s muddy landscape make it necessary to balance the “heavy” areas on opposite sides. It’s noteworthy, too, that one of the synagogues has been in continual use since it was built; the ark, from the late 1500s, is still in use along with a Torah from 1573!
Once renovation is completed, the Jewish Museum will house a vast array of artifacts, manuscripts, and liturgical objects reflecting the enduring legacy of Jewish life in Venice. It will be one of the most unique Jewish museums in Europe and will make the community’s rich history and cultural contributions come to life.
Today, Venice’s small but vibrant Jewish community has approximately 500 members. The ghetto remains a focal point of Jewish life (though all but 16 Jews live elsewhere in the city), with the Jewish Museum, synagogues, a religious school, and kosher restaurants operating and proving the grit and perseverance of the Jewish community in this unique and beautiful city.
Roz Bokoff and her husband, Marc, are travel advisors based in Lakewood Ranch. Experienced in all types of travel around the world, their Jewish heritage and practice drives them to seek out Jewish culture when they travel. Roz can be reached at Roz.Bokoff@CruisePlanners.com.